Tula Hoodie Hood Pattern and Tutorial

The wait is finally over! After getting my computer to play nice with Blogger and taking care of family obligations, this has taken longer than I had hoped. But now, I present to you the Hoodie Hood Tutorial!!

I love the convenience of the flat hood and how easy it is to use on my Tula, but my kid HATES it! he will scream bloody murder when it's up if he happens to be awake. That flat hood also does little to nothing to help protect my kid's head from the sun or other elements unless it's hooked in and that's not happening - see above. 

If you're in the same boat as me or you just love that you can personalize your carriers with fun designs like the one pictured above, it's time to make a hoodie hood!

This pattern will fit a Tula™ in either standard or toddler size.This pattern is reversible, but keep in mind that the hood will either need to hang differently to show the other side, or you will need to apply two sets of snaps to change the direction. 

Here's your supply list:

· two coordinating fabrics (a fat quarter of each may just barely fit, but 1/2 yard is a safe bet)

· metal snaps (ykk 15 mm snaps are the ones used by Tula or #24 FASHION spring KAM snaps are the same size and should also work, though sometimes not as tightly)

· coordinating thread

· elastic cord (about 1 yard of 1/8" cord will be enough)

Now you will need to print the pattern here. You’re ready to start!

First, you will need to cut out your pattern pieces. Make sure that your fabric is folded in half such that the pattern is parallel to the fold. 

If the pattern in your fabric is not positioned this way off the bolt, you will want to make sure that you unfold and fold in the opposite direction. If you don't do this, the fabric design will be sideways on your hood!

Place the pattern against the fold on the indicated locations. Cut around the edges of the pattern EXCEPT where it is marked as FOLD LINE.

Do this for both of your pieces of fabric. You will be left with two pieces that look like this.

Fold right sides together of each piece and sew along the top curve using a 1/4" seam allowance.

This is what it will look like at the edge by the fold. Be sure to backstitch here.

Press the seams open along the curve.

If you are planning to embellish the front of the hood in any way, you will want to do that now. Be sure to leave a small gap at the bottom to allow for sewing the outside and inside of the hood together. This is my finished front. (it will have propellers that snap on later).

Flip one of the pieces right sides out and nest the top and bottom fabrics of the hood together so that right sides are together. Pin in place, matching the seam line at the top of the hood.

Cut two pieces of elastic about 17-18 inches long.

Sew around the sides and top of the two pieces of fabric, leaving a gap at the marked location of the pattern. Make sure to back-stitch before and after the gap to keep it securely closed when turning.

Press all of the sewn edges.

Top-stitch around the sides and top of the two pieces, leaving a gap where you left the gap on the inside seam.

Sew a casing for the elastic on the side about 1/2 inch away from the edge. Then sew inwards to the edge of the hood to connect to the topstitching.

Fold each piece of elastic in half and slide up through your casing.

Leave enough sticking out for your liking. I usually like around an inch or so.

Stitch along the bottom of your casing to keep the elastic in place, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the bottom. You'll want to sew over the elastic multiple times to prevent it from being pulled out with use. 

Trim any excess elastic from the bottom.

Separate the two sides of the elastic loop at the top. Sew a short distance between the two pieces of elastic in the casing. Make sure not to sew over the top of the elastic.

This prevents the elastic from sliding down into the casing when no reach straps are attached.

Cut a piece of material for the binding of the base. You will want it to be at least 3 inches wide by 9.5 inches long.

Press the sides in a quarter of an inch.

Fold in half lengthwise and press again.

Now fold each half in half and press one more time.

You'll be left with a strip that is about an inch tall with no unfinished edges showing.

Mark the location on your hood for the pleat. This is found at the bottom of the pattern.

Also, find the center of your hood at the bottom open edge and mark with a pin.

Do the same with your binding.

Fold the pleats into the center of the hood at the marked locations. Pin these in place.

Line up the center of the hood to the center of the binding.

Pin across the bottom of the hood.

Sew up the side of the binding, across the bottom of the hood and then down the other side of the binding.

Now you're ready for snaps! Snap should be 8.5 inches apart. It’s always a good idea to measure your own Tula to make sure that this measurement is correct. There may be slight variations in this distance due to manufacturing differences. Measure half of the snap width from the center, in the middle of the binding, and mark with a pin or disappearing/washable fabric marker.

Measure your marks again to make sure that they are the right distance apart and adjust if necessary. It's important to get the distance apart right so that the hood will snap into your carrier correctly. When in doubt, err on the side of too far apart instead of too close together.

Follow the directions of your preferred snap setting device to install the snaps. You can use snap pliers, snap presses, or more simple mechanical tools to install the snaps. Repeat for the other mark.

You're done! If you've sewn with elastic, see my tutorial here to make your reach straps. If you used webbing or already have your reach straps made and want to embellish the ends, see the tutorial here!

As always, if you enjoyed this tutorial, please consider donating to help me write more! Thank you to those who have already made donations. A small donation will go a long way!